MONFRAGÜE,
NATURAL PARK AND BIOSFHERE RESERVE

This site, Known to most simply as Monfragüe, is probably the best known birdwatching site in Extremadura, and one of the most important reserves in Spain and western Europe, for both its fauna and flora. The Natural Park lies within a much larger ZEPA. In addition to holding both the largest known concentration of breading Black Vulture in the world ( c.250 pairs) and of Black Stork in western Europe, incluiding c.9 pairs of Sapnish Imperial Eagle and several pairs of Bonelli´s Eagle. Away from southern Andalusia, it also becoming known as the site for White-rumped Swift.
The world´s most threatened feline, the Iberian Lynx still occurs, along with a wide range of vertebrates including Mongoose, Genet and otter, and numerous reptiles including Ocellated Lizard.

The area can be accesed from our house on the Ex-208 road.


Monfrague Map

Apart from species such as Black Kite, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Azure-winged Magpie, Hoopoe,Woodchat Shrike and very accasionally, Roller and Black-winged Kite, which can be seen along the road coming north from Trujillo, the first main interesting is at 5 km north of Torrejón el Rubio, where the roads winds it way sharply down to a bridge over asmall stream,signed “Arroyo de la Vid”. Small roadside parkings areas are present just before and after the bridge, and the stream scrub here should be checked for small passerines. The bridge hosts a pair of Red-rumped Swallow, whilst following the track east on the left bank for c.100 m gives views of telephone poles where a pair or two of Spanish Sparrow usually breeds, and Rock Sparrow are frequent in the trees; Scops Owls can often be found calling here in the evenings and Red-necked Nightjar has been recorded.
Sardinian and Dartford Warblers are common in the Cistus scrub on the right bank, while the whole area is favoured by Cirl Bunting, Azure-winged Magpie and Orphean Warbler shoulb be looked for in the trees, and are relatively frequent 8 but elusive) between here and the castle. Continuing, the road winds uop and alongside a small gully, particulary good for Orphean Warbler, and then through mixed dehesa and grazing fields where Thekla Lark is common, though safe stopping points are very limited.
CASTLE AREA
At 9 km there is a car park adjacent to the road on the right , signposted “ Castillo de Monfragüe”, and a track which leads up from here towards the castle on top of the ridge. The car park and especially the fields on the opposite side of the road are good for Thekla Lark, Orphean Warbler,Woodchat Shrike, and occasional Azure-winged Magpie , and while it is possible to walk up to the castle from here, it is better to drive up the track c.0.3 km to another small car park underneath a rockface, where several large trees provide good shade. Here, Griffon Vultures often pass close by, while the rock face has Blue Rock. Trush, Black Redstart, Crag Martin, Red-rumped Swallw and Rock Sparrow. Walking up the track passes through scrub with numerous Hawfinch, and Robin and Cirl and Rock Buntings are frequent. The track then doubles back just before reaching a long series of stone steps and the end of which is the castle . Although superb views out over the park, and back south towards Trujillo can be obtained from around the bottom of the castle wall, it´s worth carefully climbing the narrow staircase inside to reach the parapet, which allows a stunning 360º panorama. From here , often surprisingly close views of many of the park´s raptors can be had, including flying past below you, with large numbers of griffon Vulture and Black Kite, while Egyptian and Black Vultures, Red Kite, Short-toed and Booted Eagles and Kestrel are regular, and Spanish Imperial, Golden and Bonelli´s Eagles, Goshawk, Sparrowhawk and Peregrine are occasional. Black Stork also often crises past, but is better seen elsewhere in the parque. The castle is also currently the best place in Extremadura to look for White-rumped Swift , which feed, often in small groups, up and down the ridge-top (usually on the south side). These need to be looked for carefully, since House Martin and Swift are abundant here, and Alpine Swift and Pallid Swift occasionally cruise through. The rocky crags and ruins also support a number of other species, incluiding numerous Red-rumped Swallows, Chough, Black Redstart and Rock Bunting , and rarely, Rock Thrush and Black Wheatear have been recorded.

PEÑAFALCON AREA

Continuing along the road from he car park, the road bends to right after 1 km, where there is ample paved car-parking space off to the left, at the “ Salto del Gitano”. This overlooks the reservoir and across to a huge rock pinnacle, known as PeñaFalcón ( or some variant!). This is one of the biggest colonies of Griffon Vulture in the park, giving excellent views, though a couple pairs of Black Stork also breed low down towards the left hand side. Peregrine breeds high up on the left, and one or two pairs of Egyptian Vulture are present, though close scrutiny of the constant movement of birds in front can turn up almost any of the raptor species, and with luck White-rumped swift ( especially from early June) . The rock outcrops around the car park itself are good for Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin, Black Redstart and Rock Bunting , and the latter and Cirl Bunting also usually occur in the scrub and trees, just past the rock pinnacle at the northern end of the car park, fron where views into a Black Stork nest can be obtained from the roadside.

The road passes through 2.5 km of dense , shady scrub, before suddenly turning sharply left just before passing over a long bridge. 0.2 km before this on the left is a small parking area with picnic tables signposted “aparcamiento”, though to the right on the bend is an entrance to a track , with enough parking space for a few cars, by the “ Fuente del Frances”. Walking past the spring and along the edge of the reservoir along an old road gives excellent views out over the reservoir and in particular towards the bridge , where a large colony of House Martins is present, plus various pairs of Alpine Swift. The road passes through scrub and trees, which should be checked for Subalpine, Sardinian, Dartford and occasional Orphean Warblers, Shor-toed , Treecreeper, Hawfinch and Rock Bunting.


Following this for 1 km, it jinks round a small inlet, where Black Wheatear has been found. From this road, good views back across the reservoir to the crags above and to the right of the bridge can be obtained, where Griffon Vulture, Black Kite and on occasion Benelli´s Eagle can be seen.. The track continues for another 0.4 km until reaching the old, and now rather rough “ Puente del Cardenal” bridge crossing back over the reservoir. However, except in dry years or in autumm, this is usually submerged by high water levels, and impassable, though is part of the red, “ Shady Castle” walking route. Thus used to be a breeding site for White-rumped Swift, and if exposed in summer should be checked, as its use of Red-rumped Swallow nests for breading means that it could turn up anywhere where nests of the latter occur.

TIETAR RIVER AREA

Following the road from 1.5 km N of Villarreal towards La Bazagona , the left-hand side is dominated by a rather uninteresting regenerating eucalyptus plantation, while the right is mainly dense Cistus scrub. This road winds along the valleyside and it´s possible to stop 2.5 km after the junction, where a tracks leads down signposed “ Itinerario Amarillo-Fuente de los Tres Caños”, to look out over the south or check the trees around the spring. 0.2 km further on, a pull-offf on the right allows fine views out over the reservoirs and hill ridges to the south, and the dead trees are good for Black-eared Wheatear and Rock Bunting, while Bee-eater often pass overhead and Golden Oriole can occasionally be seen flying between the groups of larger trees. Looking down to the reservoir, Blacks Stork and Egyptian Vulture nests lie almost side-by-side on the left-hand side of the promontory, though can be difficult to pick out. A further 0.3km ahead, the roads bends sharply to the right in a tiny valley, and the trees here often hold Orphean Warbler and Thekla and Wood-Larks are present.

The road as then continues alongside the dammed river until a small stopping area with trees for shade marks access to a small hide at the “ Mirador de la Tajadilla”, looking across to some cliffs on the opposite side of the reservoir. Griffon Vulture, Black Kite, Blue Rock Thrush and Raven breed, an d Eagle Owl is possible at dusk; Spanish Imperial Eagle has occurred here in the past. Egyptian Vulture is often seen displaying here in early spring, and bred here until 2 years ago ( and could do so again). Standing outside allows better all-round views, especially as the hide slits are cut low down. Crested Tit os occasional here on the other side of the road.
After de dam, the road begins to rise up into a small mixed area of woodland and plantation, turning first right, then sharply left, and 100 m further up where pines are present is good for Azure-winged Magpie and Crested Tit. Leaving the pines ans entering scrub again, the road ( in poor condition) winds to a point 1.4 km from the dam, where a squat whitish building is present on the right almongst a few young trees and with ample parking space; this is the famous “ Mirador de la Bascula”. Although not spectacular, the near ridge has a nest of at least one Black Vulture and Spanish Imperial Eagle(active before 2003). Adults of the latter often rise up to soar just above the ridge-top. The electricity pylons near the viewpoint are also excellent lookout posts for Short-toed Eagle, while the Cistus scrub around and especially, Spectacled Warblers, while an evening visit may reveal Red-necked Nighjar which breeds in good density here. In autumm, the trees lining the opposite side ot he road are particulary good for two-tailed Pasha butterflies.

3.5 km after the dam, the road goes over a small bridge, and although parking is limites, this can be productive for raptors over the surrounding hillsides. 1 km after this bridge it is possible to stop on the roadside and looking across the reservoir to a large, almost triangular rock just above the water, where Egyptian Vulture and Black Stork breed one above the other , and provide superb views into their nests; a pair of Short-toed Eagle often nests on the hillside above. Finally, somo 0.3 km further on, excellent views can be obtained from the opposite side of the reservoir. Griffon Vulture, Eagle Owl, Crag Martin and Blue Rock Thrush breed, while a few Black & Egyptien Vulture often sit about near the top. The owls are best seen around dusk or earley morning, especially in mid-spring when young are just on the wing. Other raptors are often also seen here, incluiding Spanish Imperial Eagle and Bonelli´s Eagle which pass over occasionally